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Our inner OC



It has taken us a year to get used to it, and when there are hints that we may have to move out of Orange County, we realise with surprise that we’ll miss it. Who’d have thought that hundreds of square miles of the same 10 suburban blocks containing the same 10 chain outlets in a repeating pattern would actually take on variety enough to endear? (This is, of course, inner Orange County, tucked safely out of sight of the riches of the Pacific coast.)

And for food-obsessed me, “variety” is the ability to get meals comprising dishes I’ve never heard of. I’m now a big fan of Vietnamese food, and often make excursions into ‘Little Saigon’, not far from where we live. I’ve always been the only Indian around and almost always the only non-Vietnamese person, which is both strange and comforting. The big draw for me at first was that Vietnamese coffee is like South Indian coffee: strong, milky and sickly sweet. Perfect. Now the attraction is pho. “Noodle soup” gives no idea of the delight that a good pho is. The best ones are beef-based, with a real depth of flavour, and a mouth-feel that one poster on Chowhound.com accurately described as “silky”.

Little Korea is not far away either, and though I’m not a huge fan of restaurants that make you cook your own food, I enjoy the flavours and textures of a Korean barbecue. Somewhere between Little Saigon and Little Korea is a little dash of China, with restaurants that serve dim sum in all its astounding variety---from the regular steamed dumplings and deep-fried delights, to dishes such as chicken feet, jellyfish and cubes of steamed blood that look like chocolate (and don’t taste of anything much).

But even more exciting than the restaurants are the supermarkets. I could wander their aisles for weeks, alternatingly excited and despairing at how much food there is in the world to try. Supermarkets in the OC are a microcosm of the county itself. Structurally, they’re all the same, but on inspection, there’s a whole lot of subtext going on. There are what even my white friends call the “white” supermarkets with their safe, sliced, diced, cling-filmed choices. There are the Mexican markets with huge varieties of chillis and cheap meat, an excellent Middle-Eastern market aptly named Wholesome Choice, and finally the Chinese, Vietnamese and Korean treasure troves. The latter few make me homesick because they are often smelly and full of people with no awareness of personal space who are genuinely excited about the food they’re buying: poking, sniffing, scratching, questioning. Unlike the markets back home though, there are things on sale that I couldn’t even make up: sushi-grade sea-urchin roe, boneless duck’s feet, live abalone, deep-fried baby crabs, animal ears and uteruses, little sesame-studded anchovies sold like chips…

Best of all, it’s a diversity that’s totally unselfconscious. Little Saigon, like Chinatowns across the country, is a real living space; it’s not there just to give non-Vietnamese people an “ethnic” experience.

We may have to relocate to an area that is expensive, quiet, safe and beautiful. Residents cycle and trek in the hills on weekends, people own dogs and apartment complexes have wine tastings. As a result, we’re suddenly all appreciation for our downmarket inner OC. For example, earlier we’d complain about how the county was so diluted that a simple errand run would cover 30 or 40 miles. Now? We’re raving about how Orange County offers big-city diversity spread under a suburb’s wide, open skies.

There’s nothing like so-called “moving up” to show how happy you are with what you have.

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Archives

The pursuit of happiness
They say the reason time flies as you age is that each year becomes a smaller percentage of your life. I remember those 10 per cent days well, when a year was a like a mini-lifetime.

The song remains different
Whenever I'm asked "desert island" questions about books and movies, my brain freezes. But with music, my answer is clear: I'd take all the Beatles albums.

When deafness is a crime
Given that we are social creatures, and that even our physical health depends on positive interaction with our own species, it's astonishing how many of us are terrible listeners.

The small viral victories
The air in Arizona was dry, and the Grand Canyon train full of screaming little germ bombs, so it wasn't surprising that my visiting mother-in-law picked up what turned out to be the household's epic cold of 2009.

Fast-food concerts
Maybe when you have to fill a stadium with sound, you have no choice but to turn the amplifiers to 11.

Rain, rain go away
Having spent the last ten years of my life in desert regions, it's been a long time since I've owned a raincoat.

Going up in smoke
One of the things that hits me when I visit India is the number of people, especially young girls, who smoke.

It's not about you
One of the risks of writing fiction is the assumptions made about where your characters come from.

Finding their pedalling feet
I was standing in the foyer of the Downtown Independent movie theatre in Los Angeles, and though I was in shorts, T-shirt and baseball cap, I felt like a man in a tuxedo at a beach party.

What's in a name?
"Bad Prints" is a bold choice of name for video-lending library. I often passed the place as a child in Bangalore, and each time I'd laugh, but think what a game with fire it was.

Honest food is great food
One of the hardest things to do, when eating challenging dishes from other cultures, is losing notions of culinary right or wrong.

Taking corrective action
While the medical profession gets great respect as a whole, many people don't respect their doctors enough to listen to them.

The family's best friend
When our closest friends lost their dog earlier this year, it really hit our family too, and not just because we knew Oscar.

Behind non-resident eyes
The term non-resident Indian (NRI) is simply a geographic and economic status, referring to Indian nationals living outside their country. But within India, it can be pejorative.

Alone again, unnaturally
I once knew someone who so hated being alone that, on weekends, if he ran out of friends to meet, he'd even call up people he disliked.

Staying in good repair
After the bank account, house and car, the most important find for a new settler is a good mechanic. Today, more than ever, you are completely at a repair person's mercy.

Make more or make do?
Shawn, an expatriate bicyclist with an off-roading group in Bangalore, India, had ordered his hydration pack online, and it was taking a while to arrive. But the rides were intense and he sweated a lot...

Defender of the Queen's
Sometimes, the attitude towards English by some professional Indians pains me. Though English is the language that earns them their daily bread...

Don't pass the dip
Hummus, salsa and pesto: dishes that involve no cooking, and are dead easy to make… in theory. After all, the recipes are basically, "assemble the following ingredients and blend".

Playing with risk
I've blathered away about how wonderful exercise has been to me and how it can cure all of humanity's ills, but there is something I sometimes tussle with.

Small change for a big city
Standing, stymied, at the Whitefield Post Office in Bangalore, I realised that some things abroad are so logical you forget it was ever any different. For example, post offices that sell envelopes and boxes.

Making yourself at home
"You can never go home." I love how such a simple line cuts straight to the heart of the expatriate dilemma.

Critical mass or mess?
A band of about 60 cyclists threaded their way through Bangalore one recent Saturday morning. Some were helmeted, some on road bikes, some on mountain bikes and all but two were men.

The L.A. surprise
After spending a year on a far-flung spiral of Los Angeles, we've made enough tentative forays into the centre to begin to grasp this mutant behemoth.

View from the highground
Nothing makes you want to slap someone more than when they preach from on high. I used to be eminently slappable a few years ago, when I would save paper...

Water under the bridge
Jal neti is so effective that it's criminal you don't immediately know what it is. It really should be a household term around the world.

Fragrant comfort food
Mention biriyani to any meat-eating Indian friends of mine, and their eyes light up--whether they're from the north or south; Hindu, Muslim, Parsee or Christian.

I'll see you when I call you
Of the many arts we've lost to the cellphone, perhaps the most trying to anybody even slightly punctual (if you can be slightly punctual) is the inability to commit to anything even five minutes in the future.

Wired for leisure
Many prolific writers, when writing about writing, insist that writer's block is self-indulgence bordering on moral laxity. The secret for many of them is to get to that desk and spend the day there--no matter what.

The American nightmare
We're big fans of the comedian Eddie Izzard, finding moments to quote him almost every week. So, it was months in advance that we got tickets to see him at the Kodak Theater in Hollywood.

Those insects of the sea
While I can understand someone not wanting to eat insects, I take exception when people look down on cultures
that do.

Gertrude shows the way
I wouldn't call us Luddites, but my wife and are I wary of gadgets; fascinated by them, but preferring not to actually possess and be possessed.

Hallowed middle ground
The last time, I wrote about the rules of being a modern urbanite and how being competitive and rudely opinionated seem to be the new social norm. Just after...

How to be a modern urbanite
Have you found that when you meet your friends these days they are so smug you want to slap them? That you come away from encounters feeling judged and condescended to?

The simple life
Our family started buying eggs for the first time when I was 12 years old. It made me feel guilty, as if we were doing something illegal.

Nine servings of smugness
As part of my unofficial vow to stay healthy into senescence, I've decided to eat less meat, and more fruit and vegetables.

The power of the people... literally
I'm excited to see the development of a cycling community in Bangalore: groups of people who cycle to work, or go on biking trips out of town.

Paying the price of consumption
Sometimes, when driving into Los Angeles airport, there's a policeman screening the cars, stopping the occasional one to ask questions. Every so often, one of these drivers either gets the answers wrong or maybe sweats too much, and is waved over to the side.

Giving away the blues
Every afternoon, as the sun starts to get lower, I can hear the sounds of budding musicians around us starting practice. It's all very peaceful and harmonious… until I join in.

Anywhere between super-fit and super-fat
One of the biggest lessons I'm learning as I get older is that I'm not 17 anymore. Considering I'm double that age, this should be blindingly obvious, but the trouble is that I still feel 17, at least until I do anything out of the ordinary.

The revenge of the meek
As if it isn't bad enough that the non-shy see the quiet person at the end of the table and assume he or she is a snotty little git, shy people make that mistake all the time.

California's free (to moisturise)
The other day, I was out on my bicycle on a sweltering spring day. This happens now and then in Southern California--the other weekend it was 25°C on Friday, 38 on Saturday, and 25 again on Sunday.

The mammoth sugar reflex
When humans immerse their faces in water, their heart rates decrease. The colder the water, the more pronounced the effect, and the longer they can remain without breathing.

Darling, it's over between us
The most useful and heartbreaking advice I've read about writing is a quote attributed to writer Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch that goes: "Murder your darlings".

Blogging for life
Of all the hobbies I've had a go at, blogging is one that actually repels me, even as I fall for its sly charms.

High-def war: the end ...?
Consider just some of the formats, extant, dying or defunct, of the little silver disc: CD, VCD, HDCD, SACD, CD-R, CD-RW, CD-ROM, DVD, DVD-A, DVD-R, DVD-RW, DVD-ROM.

Everybody's an expert now
Okay, now I have officially been to one too many social occasions where somebody is really "into" something. It's not so much the word, but the way in which it's stressed that sets my teeth on edge.

Putting mettle to pedal
The last time I wanted a cycle, my choice was easy. Two wheels, pedals. No child could ask for more. This time, I'm considering joining a PhD programme in bicycle buying...

The trouble with people
Jean Paul Sartre's play No Exit has a famous premise and line that's now so overused by journalists, it's probably on the cliché-list of several stylebooks.

Questions of taste
The problem with having an even half-functional imagination is that reality has a terrible time keeping up. This has been my undoing all my life.

Hunting for a living
Hunting for a living hasn't changed much over the millennia. Stalking, sniffing the air, staying alert to danger in the vicinity, and finally moving in for the kill, paying the security deposit with a swift slash of the dominant arm.

Come join my cult
It was my first Saturday-evening outing in a while, and I was accompanying a dubious couple to a five-hour-long cult meeting.

Strike while the fire is hot
First the fires, now the writers' strike... Southern California just keeps burning. It's flippant of me to associate a disaster with a relative non-event, but both are so very Californian I can't resist.

Face-off on Facebook
There's a story from the early days of the cellular telephone that tells of a man pacing the lobby of a five-star hotel, talking loudly into his mobile. Then, as he asked for empires to be bought and sold, his purportedly engaged phone rang.

LA's underground movement
My favourite big-city experience is the moment you crest the escalator of an underground station and step into a new neighbourhood.

The emptiness of choice
India, for all its grotesquerie and occasional rapaciousness, has a redeeming innocence. It is the honesty of the child (who knows no other way to be), rather than that of the adult who knows honesty is merely a part one must play.

Making the most of jams
The English have the weather, Bangaloreans have traffic. It won't be long before, in the style of the Inuit, Bangaloreans have 40 different words for "traffic jam"; to describe everything from a light sprinkling of vehicles to impassable drifts.

An endearing naïveté
Ronnie Chan has egg on his face. The Hong-Kong businessman, who drops statements such as, 'I bought 40 companies in France' into speeches, is not shy about the potential greatness of China.

Our inner OC
It has taken us a year to get used to it, and when there are hints that we may have to move out of Orange County, we realise with surprise that we’ll miss it.

A modern-day witchhunt
It gets hot inside, so the writer often takes his laptop to the balcony. There’s always a cool breeze there, and it overlooks the happy bustle of the swimming pool.

Disorder at the border
I recently did one of the most foolish things I've done in many years. I attempted to leave the US with only a driving licence as identification.

Cutting through the clutter
Clutter. Some people see it, others don't. And as life would have it, the ones who do, end up marrying the ones who don't.

Wrong on many levels
I've discovered an eerie phenomenon here in the US. Friendly Indian couples skulk in public places waiting to pounce on other Indian couples and offer them jobs.

The stress on accent
Many of us Indians for whom English is a first, or near-first, language, fondly imagine we have a "neutral accent".

Do as the roamers do
In India, the phrase "foreign returned" carries almost as much baggage as the people it refers to.

Giving in to the network ratings
My sister-in-law tried long and hard to get my wife and I to sign up, but both of us instinctively flinched from the concept. A networking site that puts you in touch with hundreds (or thousands, or millions) of people?

Ring, ring. It's your ear calling
One day, I did something very out of character. I handed my wife a box of matches, stuck a hollow candle into my ear, and asked her to light it.

The baby boy blues
Last time, I wrote about the dangers of being less than one hour late for my neighbour's baby-naming ceremony, but didn't touch upon the other big danger that evening: the baby.

Punctual is the new premature
I'm the sort of person who's 10 minutes early to everything, except social occasions where I'm either on time, or unfashionably, five minutes late. My wife is less pathological and knows the value of a good 30-minute social margin.

Kitchen knives don't cut people
Through a series of events too convoluted to recount here, we have the use of a friend's sports car. We're guilty about the yeti-like carbon footprint of its 4.6L engine, but when you don't have a car and somebody tosses you the keys to theirs, you catch.

Keeping them off the streets
Every so often our doorbell rings, and I open the door to a hulk carrying a clipboard. The hulk's story usually goes that he is in school and is selling newspaper subscriptions to help with his fees.

The his and hers of shopping
Whenever the wife says we need to go to the shops, I immediately ask: "What are we going for?" If the answer is either "clothes" or "shoes", I run away screaming, and am not seen again for days.

A living history
One of our longest-standing family friends lives in Holmfirth, West Yorkshire, in a dwelling called The Old Farmhouse. This being England, it's not the twee name of a faux-country house built ten years ago.

Seeing into the future
I've often seen people standing outside the local cinema with a sign saying, "Free movie". I've wondered what the catch is: for if there's no free lunch, there's hardly likely to be a free movie.

The breath of a wok
Guacamole has been in the American news recently… or rather, Kraft's version of the avocado-based dip. A woman from Los Angeles is suing Kraft Foods Inc. because its guacamole is less than two per cent avocado...

Living in pop-culture central
When a New Yorker sees the subway train to Harlem, it's unlikely that the jazz standard 'Take the A Train' comes to mind every time. Similarly, a Californian on the Santa Monica Boulevard is probably not humming 'All I Wanna Do' by Sheryl Crow, the way I do whenever I see the sign.

There's plenty in a name
Bangalore recently enjoyed a festival of Kannada plays in English. There was excitement in the theatre community because, for the first time, the Karnataka government, specifically the Karnataka Nataka Academy, was sponsoring English theatre.

The future's on a roll
It's amazing how easy it is to forget. After a busy week of photographing a festival of plays in Bangalore, I packed away my gear and spotted something in my camera bag that I haven't used in a very long time. A film picker.

House husbands unite!
She pitched her voice loud enough for everybody to hear, feigned embarrassment at having to ask, and said, "So what's it like being a house husband?" I cringed, but not for myself. I was embarrassed for her.

Give food a chance
I thought I'd never make a negative cuisine generalisation, but I really don't like Mexican food. This troubles me because Southern California is probably the best place in the world, after Mexico, for Mexican food.

Sofa beds, big cities, old friends
In the Museum of Modern Art in New York is a work called The Lights Going On and Off by Martin Creed. It is an empty gallery with bare walls in which the lights are set on a continuous timer to turn on for five seconds and off for five seconds.

Beetle dressing
As I dutifully ate my salad, a tiny brown beetle crawled out of it, heading quickly for the side of my plate. It seemed unfazed by the balsamic vinaigrette and kept up a good pace, almost escaping over the edge.

The borderline cases
As I stood in line, a man who'd been sitting to one side was called up to the counter. To my disbelief, after a few questions from the officer, a guard came up behind and handcuffed him, even as the officer asked: "Have you been arrested in the US before?"

Taking life at 33.33rpm
I was going to attend a record fair for the first time and was burning with curiosity. Would it be full of dusty old men in anoraks looking for LPs of obscure Tchaikovsky concerts?

Summers to remember
When we tropical types visit Western countries, we expect--no, demand--that the weather always be lovely and cool. We feel cheated if we so much as break a sweat.

Too much of a good thing?
A pretty woman in white stood in a spotlight just off the front of the stage. I assumed she was an announcer or an extra dancer, or even - this being a faux Beatles concert - someone playing a crazed fan.

Beware of biting vegetable
It was the first time I'd seen cactus do anything but stick out of the ground. There on the vegetable shelf of a supermarket, between the leeks and the jalapenos, was a small pile of cactus pads, spines still on.

Shiver me timber!
The first and only time in my life I have had to throw away an ice cream was on my first trip to the US. I quickly learned that when in America and presented with the food choice of 'small, regular or large', to always go for 'small', even if half starved.

Travelling light
The last six years have gone by so fast that I feel I haven't been in one place long enough to put down a bag - leave alone roots.

There's electricity in the air
In the Silicon Valley of India, as soon as there is the hint of a rainstorm, they turn off the power.

Scintillating cut and paste
As a writer, internalisation is my worst nightmare. I have, without a qualm, watched my plays being rehearsed for weeks, and then halfway through opening night, I undergo a Moment.

Browsers take a bruising
When Mr T.S. Shanbhag's phone rings, he invariably has to move a heap of books to get to it. As he writes out a bill at his desk, he does so on a stack of periodicals two feet high.

Will work for words
There were 12 of us in our high school class. Now, 16 years after school, many of us live outside India - mainly in the US. Every so often, someone visits Bangalore, and the class gathers again.

The mirrors that walk
At a recent party, once all the revelry was done, a small group of us sat down and did something I haven't done at an outing for a long time. We had meaningful discussion.

Different strokes
When I finish my swim, I often linger by the pool, people watching. As with waterholes in the wild, the variety of characters drawn to the average swimming pool is astounding.

The chicken run
Recently in this column, I wrote how being a non-vegetarian wasn't the best idea on this crowded planet. And now, chickens are hammering this home in waves around the world.

Light on the subject
I think lighting is the most exciting of all of theatre's "backstage arts". It offers a combination of art and science that perhaps only architecture can rival.

Feeding on guilt
Many people define their city experience by the entertainment; my group of friends defines it by the food. But not just any food. We are excessively proud of the fact that we know the best, cheap meals in town.

Blinkers by the bagful
Brown skin, Indian accent, broken English. If you think the three necessarily go together, I've met you several times in Dubai.

Dangerous puffed-up pigeons
What is it about theatre that attracts people of little learning made dangerous because they think they know everything? Writers, directors, lighting designers, stage managers: the average theatre in Bangalore is filled with a cast of giant walking egos.

The great cycle of life
It's been over 15 years since I got on a cycle that actually moves when I pedal. And over 15 years since I've hit the back roads around my home; roads I've clattered across thousands of times as a child.

Height of torture in the sky
I've been lucky with my neighbouring airline passengers in that I've never been unlucky. I've had quiet successes: people without babies; people who say nothing after "hello".

Thank you for the music CDs
My name is Gautam and I buy CDs. There, I've said it. When feeling depressed, some people go to a fast-food place, some eat chocolate, some buy shoes. I go to a music store.

Keeping it alive and singing
I recently went to a concert by a group of musicians in their sixties. It was a senior citizens' evening at a retirement home and the group played to a warm crowd of about 10 people. I lie. Actually, the sexagenarians were The Rolling Stones...

Between the past and the future
One of my favourite analogies is the one that has the entire lifetime of the earth reduced to one year. You know it the one in which the earth begins on January 1, dinosaurs rule around Christmas time and recorded human history starts in the last seconds before midnight.

Over to the mute channels
With marriage, there is much doubling up of household items. And therefore, with marriage, comes redundancy.

The magic of the movies
Recently, my wife and I visited that centrepiece of American kitsch: the theme park. The idea hadn't appealed to her at all, so she had to be dragged there--not quite by her hair--but certainly against her will.

The city that went bang...
I have finally visited one of the dens of infamy that dot my city. I got there as an insider, picked up by a fly-by-night taxi and driven through back roads in a tearing rush to be there before the show started.

O for those languid 2MHz days
One day, after playing the latest near-reality shoot-'em-up computer game, I had a nostalgia attack.

A war between two worlds
Hollywood makes us intolerant. We learn to expect every image to have an explanation, every character to have a motive, every question to have an answer.

Jockeying for position
Disc jockeying is not, as one would expect, a profession gawky boys have mastered in bedrooms as the only way to enter parties too cool for them.

By air to India
The man next to me is pecking at a device he can use to take photos, write emails, make phone calls and control nations. The plane is hot.

Don't shoot the jazz messengers
If music is a universal language, why do the saxophones sometimes play Greek and the pianos comp Latin?

I wish him mosquitoes
The Man With the Loudest Laugh in the World is my neighbour. He shares his studio flat with--as life would have it--The Man Who Says Funny Things Into the Night.